Now celebrating its 75th anniversary, Ajmal is entering a new chapter under the leadership of third-generation CEO Abdulla Ajmal. With a renewed identity as Ajmal Dubai, the house is embracing international expansion while preserving its mastery of oud, the precious ingredient that has shaped its DNA for generations.
In an exclusive conversation with Arabian Moda, Abdulla Ajmal reflects on his family's extraordinary journey, the growing global fascination with oud, the changing landscape of luxury perfumery and his ambitious vision for the next 75 years.
AM: Can you give us a brief background on Ajmal?
Abdulla Ajmal: The business was founded 75 years ago by my grandfather, who came from a small village in Assam, northeast India, where oud originates. Contrary to what people might imagine, he wasn't born into perfumery; he started as a farmer.
AM: How did a farmer become a perfumer, and how did the business expand beyond India?
Abdulla Ajmal: Farming was very precarious at the time, with so much depending on the weather. Supporting a family was difficult. Someone introduced my grandfather to oud, which eventually became his passion and our DNA.
He moved from Assam to Bombay before travelling to the GCC, where he built relationships with customers, including members of royal families. Inspired by the UAE's leadership, he sent his second son, my uncle, to establish our first Dubai store in 1976. By 2006, we had opened our 100th store, and today, in 2026, we have approximately 400 worldwide, predominantly across the GCC, followed by India, Thailand and, most recently, Indonesia.
AM: There's a global fascination with oud today. What's your perspective?
Abdulla Ajmal: I call it "oud mania." Oud originated in India and the Far East, yet it's barely used there today, apart from certain rituals and traditional medicine in China and Japan. In India, its use had almost disappeared.
The trend exploded when international brands began introducing oud fragrances, but 99% of them don't actually contain oud. They use oud accords instead. Nevertheless, this trend has opened doors for us because when Ajmal says oud, there has to be real oud in the fragrance.
AM: Where does Ajmal stand in the global oud industry?
Abdulla Ajmal: We're the world's largest player in oud. We buy, sell and consume more than anybody else. It's fundamental to our identity. What began with just two products, incense and oil, has evolved into a complete fragrance house, offering everything from light Western fragrances to intense Khaleeji compositions.
AM: How would you describe Ajmal's positioning? You're neither entirely niche nor mass-market.
Abdulla Ajmal: I call it "commercial niche." We're established and accessible without being available everywhere. Niche perfumery today often means limited distribution and prices exceeding $300. We operate across different price points because customers who supported us when our fragrances cost $10 shouldn't be excluded when we introduce products at $100.
Loyalty matters to us. It might seem unconventional by modern marketing standards, but it works. Why fix something that isn't broken? We're simply making it more contemporary and appealing.
AM: Does remaining entirely family-owned contribute to that independence?
Abdulla Ajmal: Absolutely. Being 100% family-owned gives us the freedom to make decisions without external pressure from investors or retailers.
Other brands may have expanded faster, but our 75-year history demonstrates the sustainability of our approach. We have no intention of selling to a major group. We've always grown organically, and that's how we intend to continue.
We want to expand globally while remaining selective about where and how our fragrances are presented.
AM: What milestones are you hoping to achieve?
Abdulla Ajmal: Since becoming CEO, I've noticed a significant increase in the brand's visibility. My Instagram account has reached 250,000 followers, and people tell me they're discovering Ajmal even if they aren't customers yet.
We've recently opened at Westfield London, with Paris, New York, Rome and Milan among our next destinations. Our expansion plans are ambitious, and I'm aiming for approximately 700 stores within the next five years, provided market conditions allow.
AM: Finally, tell us about your personal creation, Oud d'Oud.
Abdulla Ajmal: I've always loved cologne, but I often find that they smell too similar. At the same time, oud is one of my greatest passions. I wanted to combine the freshness and delicacy of a cologne with the intensity of oud, creating something I could comfortably wear during summer in the south of France.
It took me 16 years to achieve that balance, working with a perfumer from Grasse. The final composition contains just 2% oud, but the blend is very specific. Interestingly, some of our biggest customers for Oud d'Oud are Chinese, despite their general preference for lighter fragrances.