Inspired by her recent experimentation with pottery, Kurogouchi has deepened her understanding of form through the tactile experience of shaping clay. This process led her to the insightful book Nihon no Katachi (Shapes in Japan), which connects traditional Japanese materials and their aesthetics with the spiritual essence of cultural artifacts. This exploration enriched her creativity, prompting her to uncover the diverse forms hidden in the world around her.
The collection features an eclectic assortment of collected objects—pebbles, porcelain vases, seashells, and lacquerware—photographed and abstracted in her signature minimalist style. Kurogouchi’s sketches, emphasizing silhouettes over detail, break down the hierarchy between utility, artistry, and the natural realm, fostering a new dialogue around the concept of form. The garments themselves emerge as functional art pieces, intricately designed to fit seamlessly into the daily lives of individuals.
Flowing lines and asymmetrical silhouettes dominate the runway, with Kurogouchi’s cotton creations—a staple for everyday elegance—showcasing dresses that interpret the organic curves of nature. The collection features boatneck dresses and tops that drape naturally, reflecting the idea that our bodies are also shaped by the elements of the earth. Each piece adapts uniquely to the wearer, breathing new life into the notion of daily attire as a canvas for personal expression.
In a stunning homage to the graphic forms of traditional Kyoto lanterns, Kurogouchi’s knit patterns evoke rich textures reminiscent of pleats and flowing fabrics. The collection includes intricately constructed dresses and cardigans with dynamic sleeve volumes, illustrating her meticulous attention to craftsmanship and detail.
Kurogouchi’s designs also pay tribute to the beauty of Japanese landscapes, seamlessly integrating elements from nature into her textiles. Luxurious jacquard fabrics shimmer with aurora threads, reminiscent of nighttime seashells, transforming cocoon jackets, dresses, and skirts into ethereal statements that evoke both depth and elegance. Each garment captures the interplay of light and shadow, enhancing the collection’s narrative of form.
A striking contrast of black and white serves as a canvas for Kurogouchi’s exploration of form, while vibrant greens inspired by Okinawa’s lush scenery add a refreshing touch to off-shoulder dresses and sustainable jersey pieces crafted from recycled materials.
Accessories play a vital role in the collection, showcasing new bags adorned with cord embroidery that mimic the gentle curves of stones, alongside glass jewelry that evokes the delicate beauty of melting ice. Collaborations with Japanese brand Entwurfein yield hats that feature smooth curves and asymmetrical designs, perfectly complementing the collection’s aesthetic.
Mame Kurogouchi’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection stands as a testament to the transformative power of nature and artistry, celebrating the rich diversity of forms found in our everyday lives. With her profound understanding of materials and their relationships, Kurogouchi is undoubtedly a designer to watch as she continues to reshape the landscape of fashion.